Tues 29 Reflections on New Zealand

I am on my way home today, in fact, I am currently sitting in the Delta lounge in LAX.  The flights over the Tasman and Pacific were uneventful and I even slept a bit.  Once again, I got a seat with a little extra leg room, and no person in the middle seat--YAY!

Now that I am looking back over my trip, I thought I would capture a few thoughts on New Zealand and my travels there in general.

1. It is truly a postcard-worthy view just about anywhere you turn. The country has made, from an outsider's perspective anyway, a conscious effort to maintain that beauty and to promote clean air, water and land.  
2. The locals are very welcoming and friendly.  I purposefully chose to stay at B&Bs (AirB&B) so that I could meet native kiwis and chat with them and learn more about them. They are a lovely bunch.  They are also a fairly diverse bunch; all toll, 6 host couples of mine consisted of NZ men married to women from other countries.  People come to NZ for a visit or to study and frequently end up staying.  Regardless of which country they came from, they were all lovely.
3. The wildlife is abundant, especially the birds.  If you are an ornithologist, you already know this, but New Zealand is the place for you!  (Especially Steward island, which I would still like to visit sometime.) One wakes up every morning to birdsong and you can continue to hear it throughout the day. While I didn't go fishing on this trip, I know that both the fresh and sea water fish are also abundant, as were the shellfish.  I loved seeing the wildlife, and the domestic animals, the little lambs and calves were so cute.
4. New Zealand, especially Queenstown, bills itself as the adventure capital of the world, and I would have to say, you can certainly find your fill of it.  There are mountains, rivers, oceans, coves, fiords, plains, and caves to climb, ride, dive, kayak, swim, rappel, and jump into/onto/down through and every other which way.  If you are looking for an outdoors adventure, NZ can always fill the bill.
5. Even with all the outdoor adventure to be had, one doesn't need to do any of it to enjoy New Zeland.  If you just drove around the country, you would find fulfillment. See#1.
6. NZ food is pretty yummy...great lamb, beef and seafood along with fruit and veggies--all of which can be found pretty easily as locally grown and grass fed. They seem to really love their sugar too...local grocery stores had oodles of bakery goods and sweets and ice cream could be found everywhere.  
7. The tourist souvenirs could use a little bit of marketing help.  The items on offer are not all that great.  On the other hand, perhaps that is intentional, but they certainly could take a lesson from Australia or Ireland to build their country's brand and to allow people to take a piece of that brand home with them in the form of a decent souvenir.
8. They use hot towel warmers...why don't we?  They are the best thing ever on a cold morning and in a cold bathroom. I think in general, we do more house heating than they do, but, these things are amazing.
   
9. I loved having a 3-week vacation, but I was ready to come home too, as my time drew to a close.  I think it is really a matter of expectations, and what you set out to do.  I met many many folks who were there for a much longer duration than I, and I would guess that for each of them, they will feel the same way. When it comes time to go home, you simply look forward to it and I am grateful that I have a lovely home and people to come home to.
10. All in all, I loved my time in New Zealand, and would recommend it to anyone and everyone.  The country has made it really easy for tourists to enjoy; travel and accommodation are easy to arrange, signage on roads and in cities are easy to see and understand.  There is something for everyone who visits.  Thanks NZ, you are AMAZING!

Mon Nov 28--Final Day

The last full day in New Zealand—and it was a pretty one!  I went to the two most touristy locations on the peninsula, Hot Water beach and Cathedral Cove.  At low tide on Hot Water beach, you can dig a hole in the sand and the thermal hot waters which feed into the ocean seep up, and mixed with ocean water, provides a nice, toasty ‘spa’ for one to sit in.  The lovely B&B I stayed at had a shovel for me to use, so off I went to dig myself a hot tub.  I was told to get as close to the rocks as possible…which I did, and started digging.  Water did indeed come up from the sand, but it was all cold, regular sea water.  I gave up on that hole and went even closer to the rocks, and started again.  I dug and dug…and every now and then I felt some warm sand, so I kept thinking that I was getting closer.  After all, the people right next to me had hot water in their spa.  Alas, I finally gave up, wondering if the warm sand/water I felt was just a result of my cold water sitting long enough in the sun to warm up.  Whatever the case, the experience was a unique one, and I was happy to be on a lovely beach on a sunny day.  Apparently, though I personally didn’t check, there was a spot directly in front of me in the ocean which was really warm from the geo-thermal waters.  I figured I may as well get going to Cathedral cove, while the tourist pack was still sitting in their spas (not everyone found hot water, in fact the majority of the people I checked with did not) I had heard that parking was a real issue there, and I wanted to get to Auckland before it was too late.  

The walk/hike to Cathedral Cove is about an hour each way, but it is lovely.  It was very different from the other cathedral caves I visited on the south island…namely there were a bunch more people here and it is really white sandstone.  But the other cave was much larger. I read that this location was used for filming a part of the Narnia films.  Speaking of which, I now want to re-watch all the Narnia films as well as all the Hobbit films, as I am sure I will recognize a bunch of the locations J

After the cove, I headed back to my B&B to return the shovel and for a quick shower, and I was off to Auckland.  I have to say, one of the strangest things was driving on a multi-lane freeway again.  I have gotten so used to driving on twisty two-lane roads that I almost felt hemmed in by the fact that I couldn’t just pull over to stop (at a pull-out place of which there are many in NZ) and take a picture when I wanted to…not that I really wanted to on the highway in Auckland, but still, I have grown quite acclimated to the local roads (even though I still drive much slower than the locals, which was part of the reason I was pulling over frequently).

I found my airport hotel, brought in all my stuff, I have to say it was definitely the most Clampett-ish porter trolley I have ever filled, then headed off to find dinner.  I promised myself that I would have at least one good steak meal while in NZ, after all, I had passed so many cattle stations where they feed on luscious green grass, and tonight was my last chance.  The place I went to has a single price for steak and salad bar, but you get to choose the cut of meat and the actual piece of meat.  I was advised to get a ‘scotch fillet’ which is a rib eye, and it was delish!  I could only make it through about half of it, and I brought the rest back with me for breakfast the next morning. 

 I took the car back to the rental place, got an Uber and headed back to the hotel. I finished up with the packing and set my alarm clock for 0:dark 30.  I have had a wonderful time, but am so excited to be heading back home.

Sun Nov 27 North Coromandel Peninsula

Today I went to church in the tiny branch of Cormomandel, where they only have a 2 hour block; one Sunday they have Sacrament meeting and sunday school, the next they have Relief Society and Priesthood in lieu of Sunday School, not a bad schedule at all :)  

I then took a looping drive around the north of the peninsula, much of it on dirt roads, and I had a few nervous moments as I realized that I was running low on fuel and that the little 'towns' I passed through infrequently had nothing resembling a gas station.  Fortunately, I was able to make it into town again and tank up, but by the time I reached my B&B for the night I was in full headache-need-to-get-to-bed-immediately mode.  It was a lovely drive though!

On  this random road there was this fence with about a half mile of old shoes tied onto the fence, shoes that hikers had worn out.  This is a big area of backcountry hiking, and one of a few places to hang it up when you are done.

Sat Nov 26 Hobbiton and Coromandel

“It's a dangerous business, Frodo, going out your door. You step onto the road, and if you don't keep your feet, there's no knowing where you might be swept off to.”

Today was a charming one!  Other than a last-minute decision to visit the Weta cave in Wellington, my only planned LOTR/Hobbit activity while in NZ was to visit Hobbiton, outside of Matamata.  I had read that it was expensive, and very touristy and crowded, but still…how can one pass on THE SHIRE???  So, I purchased a ticket for the 9:00 tour, hoping to beat the crowds I had been warned about, but due to my B&B host’s miscalculation of how long it would take to get there, and my, ahem…meandering about the dells…I didn’t actually arrive to The Shire’s Rest until a quarter to 10.  Fortunately, I was able to get a standby ticket and waited with a little trepidation, along with a nice couple from Phoenix, and we all made it on to the 10:00 tour.  Each tour boards a bus (I think about 40 people) and then we are driven into the movie set.  It is actually the Alexander farm, and is a working sheep and cattle station.  The first time that the set was used for the LOTR movies, it was torn down after filming.  However, for the Hobbit movies, Mr. Alexander agreed to let them build the set again, but struck a deal that it be permanent so they could turn it into a tourist area for ever after…and boy have they ever!  It was true, what I read, about the number of people that funnel through there, about 2500 a day.  However, it felt very organized and not rushed and we were furnished with a great tour guide; because of that it was all very charming and civilized and WAY BETTER than I had expected it to be.  I mean, really, who wouldn’t love a setting of lush green, rolling hills with cute little hobbit holes complete with laundry lines, fishing pond, party tree, double-arched bridge and a local pub?  I truly was enchanting…as you can see by all the pictures I am posting to this entry.  I can’t help it…it was so cute!  Just be glad that I am not posting all the pictures…I may have gone a little overboard with the camera today.  But to be fair, so was everyone in my group, and in every group that goes through there.  I included a few pics of all the people just to show the scope of the crowds.  Funny though, as many people as they have, it still didn’t feel crowded.  My good weather patch was out and in full cooperation today, so the weather was absolutely awesome as well. 

At the end of the tour, they gave us all a mug of ale at the Green Dragon, mine was ginger, and then we piled back on to the bus for a return to the starting point/souvenir shop. I did succumb a bit and purchased a photo book with commentary on all the shooting locations for the Hobbit movies, and it is beautiful and interesting.

River, our tour guide

This is what happened at every well-known spot, and Bag end was the most popular stop

But I got my turn too :)

Inside the Green Dragon, filling up with ale

I then headed north east to the Coromandel peninsula, after a narrow and twisty drive ended up in Coromandel town. It is a cute little town with lots of art studios/shops.  This is the first of two times where I am staying in a motel/hotel.  I had booked with AB&B, but the hostess had a misfire of her accommodation schedule and arranged (and paid the extra) for me to stay at a lovely little motel.  Church tomorrow is a couple blocks up the street.  Tonight I found a restaurant and had some lovely fish and chips (you would think I would tire of it, but they are sooooo good) and as I was sitting in the outside patio eating, I noticed across the street that there was a laundromat…yay!  I needed to do one more load to get myself home in clean clothes, so off I went to find some change and as I was walking in, my waitress from dinner was entering to toss a load of kitchen towels into the dryer. 

I have noticed here in NZ that while everyone owns a washer, very few own a dryer, and even if they do, they don’t use it unless it is absolutely necessary (it is raining or snowing for days).  I think it is that way for a number of reasons, electricity is expensive, they find it more natural, and using electricity when the sun can do the same job is just a better use of resources.  That is one thing I have noticed about the folks here in NZ, they are very green-minded.  They all recycle, NOTHING is EVER thrown on the ground, not even an apple core into the bush…at least as I have observed it. As I talk with the locals about it, they agree, and say that they still have a way to go, and that they are trying to find balance in both legislation and personal habits.

Following church tomorrow, I will continue to circle my way around the peninsula, it is once again, a very scenic and unique part of the country.

Drive on the Coromandel Peninsula, east side

Tues 22-Friday 25th-- Biking, Tubing, Templing-Oh My!

A lot has happened since I last updated, I have been out of touch for a number of reasons, so let me back up a few days. 

The Weta Cave

 Te Papa Museum

Monday I drove around Wellington a bit, which included a stop at the Weta Cave for some LOTR fun and info and a run about the wonderful Te Papa National museum and before I headed of town  for a 4+ hour trip to a teeny tiny town of Manunui which put me close to the Pureora forest for the start of bike ride through the bush on the Timber Trail.  I had organized with an outfitter to rent a bike which included shuttle transport to the start of the trail.  Paul (of Epic Cycle Adventures) also arranged for me to stay at the Blackfern lodge overnight where they could telephone him to let him know that I arrived.  They also provided a lovely dinner and breakfast too. The only other option in the middle of this trail was to camp, which I was NOT interested in. 

I was dropped off at the starting point, and for the first 4k or so, it was an amazing ride through native bush where I heard, as always here in NZ, lovely birdsong.  Then I hit the hill…and it was about 10k of climbing…not horrid climbing, but constant.  I knew within the first 2k or so that I was going to have some issues with the bike, the saddle wasn’t a good fit, the pedals weren’t very grippy, so my shoes were slipping a bunch, and the components were sluggish.  Nonetheless, I figured I would make it through. There were a few other folks out there on the trail but not a bunch.  I passed a couple who were at least 10 years my senior around the summit of the mountain, and they looked fresh as daisies…and I thought what in the world?  Especially after I made the descent on the other side I figured they were in wayyyy better shape than I gave them credit for.  Came to find out later that they were using electric bikes and a battery was powering them up the hill!  I still give them credit for managing the trail, but no wonder!  The second oddest thing I saw was a guy out there, again, towards the summit, who was on a mountain UNIcycle!  Whawhawhat???? There he was with a backpack pedaling along, passing me as cool as you please.  I did hear him stop, I don’t think it was a crash, just after I passed him, but talk about some crazies up there!  Once I got to the bottom of the hill and on to the main road, I road past a couple who were walking with packs and trekking poles, came to find out that they were walking the entire length of New Zealand, figured it would take them 60-70 days to do it. People come to this country to enjoy the outdoors, but there are definitely some who take things way further than I would ever even consider.

Lake Taupo in the very way back

At the summit, I was able to look out and see Lake Taupo in the way distance.  I took only my GoPro with me and took a shot of it, but it is difficult to tell that is what you are looking at.  The first half of the ride was 40k, and the second day was just less than that, and an easier one, as there was no mountain to climb.  I had been warned that the last 6k were uphill to the lodge, and that was no joke. 

Timber trail is only 3 years old, but really well marked and mainted. there were even some guys up doing grading work on it

One of 4 swing bridges I rode over...a little freaky but cool too!

Needless to say with the aforementioned issues with the bike and my recent illness which prevented me from having some good strong bike time, I was completely tapped out when I arrived at the lodge.  While I had taken my time during parts of it to stop and see if I could spot the bird which was singing that amazing song, or to look out at the views, let’s just say that by the time 7 hours of biking were finished, I wanted to take that bike and toss it in the river. The climb to the lodge was peppered with encouraging signs like, "the journey is uphill but the destination is all downhill", and so on. After awhile, i just wanted to shoot the signs. I was so sore and tired…and there may have been a hill or 10 that I walked up during the last hour and by the time I actually reached the Blackfern lodge I thought I there would be no way that I could mentally or physically get myself on that bike the next day.  However, I knew the power or a good night’s sleep and a good refuel on the food and I had high hopes, especially as it was supposed to be yet another gorgeous day for riding. 

The common room of the lodge, where we played pool and ate. The place was quirky and charming, decorated with a lot of old timber and farming tools and whatnot.

There was a group of 4 local men who were also staying at the lodge that night, the oldest was 66 and the others were not much younger.  I never met them on the trail, they had started before me, and they sounded like they had ridden really aggressively.  They were the nicest guys!  We played a round of pool in the common lodge area as our dinners warmed up, and had a great time chatting. They are all from the Coromandal peninsula, which is where I am heading tomorrow. They are all seasoned surf and golf and ski and bike enthusiasts, the kind of guys I imagine my work buddies Seth and Noah will be when they are in their 60s.  The lodge itself is in an idyllic setting, with a river running by and a waterfall up the path a bit, it is really beautiful.  I had a great night of sleep and in the morning, there was still no way that I was going to be able to get my body back on that bike.  It was no problem though, as the lodge owner made a call to Paul at Epic, and he came and got me around 11am.  That gave me time to have a leisurely breakfast, a walk to the waterfall (there was no way I could have done it the night before) and to chat with Don, one of the 4 guys whose knee gave out on him and he wasn’t able to ride the second day either. I have to say that the opportunities that I have had to sit and chat with the locals have been some of my very favorite times.  

Waterfall in the morning sunshine at Blackfern lodge.

Speaking of locals vs. non-locals, I just arrived at my current B&B and met my 5^th couple which consists of a mixed nationality.  The men are all from NZ, but one wife was from Germany, another from Italy, another from the Czech Republic, another from Holland, and tonight she is from China.  Maybe Andrew was right; I should move to NZ and maybe I will find a husband here J The hosts have all been lovely, regardless of where they are from, and it is enchanting to hear a foreign accent with an NZ accent too. 

After being picked up and returned to my car, I headed north to Otorohanga, for a much needed two-night stay and rest at Carrie’s B&B.  Carrie is a sweet and kind woman who was very welcoming.  It felt just like arriving at my grandmother’s home.  She invited me to attend her Lyceum club’s potluck dinner that night with her, as her brother and sister-in-law (Herb and DeeDee) would be attending and doing a presentation about the time they had spent in Chili building and running a demonstration dairy farm.  He had been a dairy farmer his whole life, and there was a company who hired him to go and share dairy farming best practices with the locals…it was an absolutely fascinating presentation. The audience had expanded that night to include the ladies’ husbands as well, and many folks there were dairy farmers, some having farms going back over 100 years in the area.  To say that they were highly engaged would be an understatement.  Herb gave the entire presentation dressed in his sombrero and poncho.  At the end, DeeDee also got up as the women wanted to know what it was like for her.  She said that she tried to go out and work on the farm, as she was a farmer’s wife and wanted to do as she had always done in NZ, but the local folks wouldn’t let her, it was no place for a woman.  She had her hands full though as they were constantly hosting people from around the area as well as college students and dignitaries who came to learn about the farming practices.  Apparently, the area they were in has a climate very similar to NZ. 

Herb in his sombrero and poncho

Herb with DeeDee and the evening's hostess.

After a really enjoyable night meeting some of the loveliest folks around, it was back to Carrie’s where I was able to have a really long and lazy sleep in the next day.  I did a couple of loads of laundry, walked down the hill to the kiwi house and saw a couple of different kinds of kiwi birds (they are nocturnal, and while I had been in areas where they can be found, I didn’t schedule any night time kiwi hunts, so this was a good opportunity to see them easily) along with some other local birds.  

Red crowned parakeet

 A fantail...hard to see as it is a little blurry, but their tails are amazing

 A huge wood pidgeon

Then I went back and Carrie and I played the piano and flute together for a while. She is an accomplished pianist, but mostly plays by ear; a skill that always amazes me.  Carrie also had a little dog, Millie, who became my buddy and we had a lovely time chatting until late in the evening.  I feel so bad that I didn’t get a picture of her, but she was truly delightful and it was hard to leave her comfortable home. 

This morning, Friday morning, was Thanksgiving back home and after a couple of quick calls home to wish the folks a Happy Thanksgiving, I got going. I woke up to rain, but it didn’t matter as the Waitamo glow worm caves were on the agenda, and I had signed up for “The Black Abyss” 5 hour tour.  IT WAS AWESOME!!! Well, most of it was at least, once again it was wetsuit time, and fortunately, 3^rd time was the charm…though it was still a beast to get into that darn wet, cold, smelly wetsuit! I still had to swap my first suit out for a larger one, I don’t know if I should take it as a compliment that people underestimate my size, or to be suspicious that they think I can’t possibly be as big as all that to need the next size up.  Whatever the case, once I got the next size up, after struggling to get the first one on and aborting, we got out for some instruction on how to abseil (rappel). My group consisted of 6 friends from the Chicago area who had all known each other since high school and me…and they were a great group.  

Our first task was to abseil into the cave about 130 feet or so.  It was pretty fun, not scary at all, they really did a good job in instructing us how to handle the ropes and the gear.  Once we got in, then they hooked us up, one by one to a zip line and we went zip lining through total darkness.  Once we got off the line, then we were given some hot chocolate and an ANZAC cookie bar before being handed an inner tube and instructed to jump into the cave’s river.  BRRRR!  So glad now that I had that horrid wet suit on!  We pulled ourselves along a rope up river until we were in the most magical area of all…with soooooo many glow worms, it really was a wonderland.  

The glowworm

The farthest-most arm of the river we went up was filled with glow worms, and on the way back down the river, we all hooked each other’s feet on the inner tubes and the guide dragged us along the cave. We were all quite, no one wanted to talk; we just laid back on our tubes taking in the ceiling and walls of the cave and I for one, was just trying to take in the moment as I never wanted to forget it, it was breathtaking.  

Another local resident, an eel

After that we did some walking/swimming in the cave followed by a little slide down a crevice and then more walking and then for those who wanted, a climb up a waterfall and out.  I and two other girls decided not to climb the waterfall.  I wondered how my feet and ankles would hold up, and while I was definitely slower than all the others in their early 20s, I was able to make it, and I consider that a success.  On the way out of the cave, another group, who was doing the tubing part only, was coming in and many of those folks were grey-haired, and much older than I.  I didn’t feel too bad, but I definitely recognized some of their hesitation with balance in my own ability to ‘walk’ through the caves.  I have wanted to hike the narrows in Zion for a long time, and have thought that they are totally out of my reach, but maybe with some trekking poles they would be within reach…I will have to think on that one. 

After exiting the cave, we were shuttled back to the base where we doffed—finally—our wetsuits and were able to take hot showers and then eat some hot soup with a bagel.  I of course purchased the pictures, because they wouldn’t allow us to take our own cameras down, and you wouldn’t have wanted to, as you likely would have ruined it or lost it. 

I then headed further north to Hamilton, where I found the LDS temple, and went in and enjoyed some time there.  It was so lovely to chat with a couple of sister missionaries in the visitor’s center.  It was still really rainy, but again, I was doing an indoor activity, so my little patch of sunshine which I have managed to lasso and drag around the country with me was allowed a day off.  After heading downtown for a burger, I finally ended up at my B&B for the night.

Hamilton Temple

Tomorrow I am off to Hobbiton and then to the Coromandal peninsula, which I understand is just beautiful.  It is hard to believe that my epic NZ journey is coming to an end, but like I mentioned to my parents today, it feels like it has been just the right amount of time.  I have been going hard while at the same time trying to really stop and smell the roses, as I don’t want to miss a thing.  Of course, there is lots I haven’t been able to see and do, so I am hoping that someday I will get another chance to come again.  But for now, it has been a most satisfying and remarkable journey!